Now we increase the voltage. Originally the motors are driven by four AA batteries, so the total voltage adds up to 6V with normal batteries. For symmetry reasons I chose to add a battery holder with also four slots. In total this will supply the motors with 6V +6V = 12V. That said, you probably shouldn’t use the motor activator button unless you want to shoot, to prevent overheating and damaging the contraption. I already did this with exactly the same model some time ago and the gun still works. So it seems to be not that harmful if applied and used carefully.
I chose the easiest way and just glued the battery holder onto the door of the original battery slot. This way all the wires will remain in the same half of the chassis and when the battery holder is connected to the internals of the gun, it can’t get lost because the wire connects it. Of course be careful not to glue the original battery door to the gun! For the connection of the battery holder I drilled a little hole in the chassis above the newly battery holder, so I can feed the wires through.
Before we can make the connections I also want to add a switch to change the voltage from normal to ludacris mode. To be honest I’m only doing that because some of my coworkers are scared of the motor sounds in ludacris mode. As with the battery holder I want to integrate the switch on the same side as all the other wires and in a position I can reach with my fingers while holding the gun.
The only part of the gun where I could find enough space, or to be more precise where enough space can be created, is the top back part of the gun which looks like a cube glued to the back of the gun. You have to remove one of the screw holders. I just used a wire cutter and ripped it out.
Then drill a whole in the back, solder three wires to the terminals, put the switch in and tighten the nut.